A Dosa Lesson From a Professional

I hadn’t even considered making the dosa I’d sampled at Pondicheri, a restaurant in New York City. The crisp lentil and rice crepe, thin as newsprint but far more delicious, was stuffed with a pumpkinseed chutney and sautéed greens….

Sometimes it’s a relief to eat a dish that makes no pretense of beauty, that settles for simply being delicious. At My Cuban Spot, a takeout window with a couple of sidewalk tables in Gowanus, Brooklyn, three huevos fritos…

A Cake You Can Take With You Anywhere

Over the years, and almost without meaning to, I have become an obsessive collector — not of objects but of recipes. I have accumulated boxes’ and files’ worth. I search for them casually in print and online, and relentlessly,…

The Novel Taste of Old Food

IN FOOD, AS IN LIFE, we prize what is young and unsullied by time: tiny wild blueberries that drop off the bush with the slightest tug; a sea urchin pried from a rock and gulped down on the beach;…

This Is the Best Firehouse Chili

One morning in the summer of 2016, there was a minor car crash on a causeway west of New Orleans, in a little town called LaPlace, on the east bank of the Mississippi River. Among those who responded was…

Doughnuts and especially croissants are what the pastry chef Ry Stephen is baking at Supermoon Bakehouse, his first venture after leaving Mr. Holmes Bakehouse in San Francisco. “It’s what we love doing,” he said in the big open kitchen…

New Neighbors, New Considerations

“Hello, thank you for coming,” the shy 20-something Russian man said haltingly to 10 of us at Mazeish restaurant on the Lower East Side. We had each paid $65 to attend Displaced Dinners, a charity series hosted by the…

PROVIDENCE, R.I. — Raw bluefish was on the menu at Oberlin in July, and I was thinking: I hope they know what they’re doing. Bluefish goes off so quickly that there was a chance my first impression would end…